From the recipes of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Occitan master dyers to future ranges of French wool yarns dyed with natural colourants, this applied research programme brings together heritage, technical innovation and cooperation between professionals.
Reviving the Art of Colourfast Dyeing
What if the knowledge of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Occitan master dyers could help renew the colours and materials used in contemporary textiles? This is the ambition behind Chroma Occitania, a programme developed by Made in Town as a continuation of the Couleur et Territoire project, in partnership with the Manufactures nationales and Collectif Tricolor. At the heart of this initiative are traditional recipes for colourfast dyeing, inherited from centuries of refinement in dyeing techniques. Historically associated with high standards of colour fastness, these recipes demonstrate an in-depth understanding of colouring materials, mordants and the interactions between fibres and dye baths. Rather than simply rediscovering plant-based dyes, Chroma Occitania seeks to re-examine this technical heritage in the light of today’s knowledge and production methods, with the aim of developing new colour palettes suited to contemporary applications in carpets, tapestries and furnishing textiles.
Antoine Janot and Paul Gout: The Legacy of Occitan Master Dyers
Occitan master dyers developed remarkable expertise in dye-producing resources and the techniques required to achieve rich, nuanced and long-lasting colours. Among them, Antoine Janot and Paul Gout left particularly valuable records of this knowledge. Their collections of recipes and colour samples reveal a genuine culture of experimentation, based on careful observation, precise preparation and mastery of every stage of the dyeing process. The research of Dominique Cardon, a historian and internationally recognised specialist in natural dyes, provides the programme’s historical and scientific foundation. Her work makes it possible to rediscover and study these recipes, understand their underlying principles and highlight the wealth of expertise developed in Occitania. This heritage is more than a collection of historical shades. It represents a body of technical knowledge that can inform new research into natural colourants and their textile applications. The aim of Chroma Occitania is precisely to transform this legacy into a living resource for contemporary design and manufacturing.
From Historical Recipes to Contemporary Technologies
To explore the potential applications of this knowledge, Chroma Occitania combines historical research, dyeing experiments and contemporary technologies. The work carried out by Sandrine Rozier and Ella Garrigue, specialists in natural dyeing, aims to adapt traditional recipes to the characteristics of French wool yarns and the requirements of modern processes. The programme draws in particular on plant-colourant extraction processes developed by Green’Ing in HĂ©rĂ©pian, in the HĂ©rault department of southern France. Using extracts prepared with contemporary methods opens up new possibilities for formulating dye baths, adjusting the quantities of colouring materials and developing shades that can be reproduced consistently. In Sandrine Rozier’s workshop, the Natura DS dyeing machine is another essential tool in this process. It makes it possible to conduct experiments under mechanised dyeing conditions, studying the parameters required to translate historical recipes into contemporary manufacturing processes. Combining these technical resources with traditional knowledge should help improve control over formulations, temperatures, treatment times and dyeing consistency. The aim is therefore not to reproduce past practices exactly, but to understand their underlying principles and adapt them to the possibilities and constraints of today’s textile production.
A Scientific Approach to Colour Characterisation
The concept of colourfast dyeing is central to Chroma Occitania. Historically associated with processes and colouring materials renowned for their durability, it provides an opportunity to assess traditional expertise against contemporary requirements for quality and longevity. The programme therefore includes a rigorous assessment of dye performance, notably through lightfastness tests (ISO 105-B02) and washing tests (ISO 105-C06), using protocols suited to the materials and applications being studied. These tests will help characterise the behaviour of colours obtained from different recipes and formulations, and identify those with the most promising properties for their intended uses.
Rubbing fastness (ISO 105-X12) may also be assessed where applications require it, particularly for carpets and certain furnishing textiles. At the same time, experiments will examine shade reproducibility, dye-bath consistency and control over manufacturing parameters — all essential conditions for developing production suitable for professional use.
The objective is to gradually build a reference system of documented and technically characterised colours, enabling manufacturers and designers to select materials with a clear understanding of their properties. This approach seeks to move beyond the purely aesthetic or heritage value of natural dyes and assess their practical potential for contemporary textile applications.
French Wool Yarns: From Colour to Traceability
Chroma Occitania also aims to contribute to the development of French wool by opening up new possibilities for design and processing. The programme seeks to progressively develop ranges of French wool yarns dyed with natural colourants, with their origin and main processing stages documented. The diversity of French wools offers numerous possibilities in terms of texture, technical characteristics and applications. Combining these materials with colour palettes developed through research into historical recipes opens up particularly promising prospects for carpet-making, tapestry and furnishing textiles. In connection with Collectif Tricolor’s work on material knowledge and traceability, this initiative seeks to combine the chromatic richness of yarns with precise information about their provenance and processing. The ambition is to offer professionals textile resources that bring together material quality, rich colours, documented performance and transparency throughout the manufacturing process.
Pooling Research and Future Production of Dyed Yarns
Developing new ranges of yarns dyed with natural colourants requires research, technical trials and production volumes that can represent a significant investment for a company or independent designer. Chroma Occitania therefore aims to bring together manufacturers, textile publishers, craftspeople and textile designers in a collective initiative that shares development resources and explores the possibility of pooling future orders. This cooperation could help establish shared colour palettes, consolidate requirements for materials and colours, and facilitate the launch of production runs suited to different professional activities. Depending on their needs, partners could use existing references of French wool yarns or contribute to the development of bespoke yarns adapted to their manufacturing techniques. Technical specifications, minimum order quantities, dyeing methods and supply conditions will be progressively assessed with interested professionals, in line with the results of the experiments. The objective is to make naturally dyed, technically characterised and traceable French wool yarns more accessible through a collective organisation capable of bringing together businesses of different sizes.
A Programme for Professionals in Carpets, Tapestries and Furnishings
Chroma Occitania is aimed in particular at furnishing textile publishers, carpet and tapestry manufacturers, tufting workshops, textile designers, craftspeople and creators wishing to explore new applications for French wool and natural colourants. Interested companies are invited to share their requirements in terms of colours, yarn specifications and volumes, helping to guide the research and explore opportunities to develop shared product references. This cooperation between researchers, dyeing specialists and manufacturing professionals aims to bring experimentation closer to the technical and economic realities of the sector. By bringing together the historical knowledge of master dyers, contemporary technologies and manufacturers’ needs, Chroma Occitania seeks to make colourfast dyeing a renewed resource for textile design.
A Partnership Between Heritage, Research and Manufacturing
Chroma Occitania is being developed by Made in Town as a continuation of the Couleur et Territoire project, in partnership with the Manufactures nationales and Collectif Tricolor. The programme draws on the historical research of Dominique Cardon, the experiments of Sandrine Rozier and Ella Garrigue, the plant-colourant extraction processes developed by Green’Ing, and the use of the Natura DS in Sandrine Rozier’s workshop. This cooperation aims to help preserve and update a remarkable body of technical heritage, while opening up new opportunities to develop French wool and create contemporary textiles.
Take Part in Chroma Occitania
Are you a manufacturer, textile publisher, craftsperson or textile designer? Would you like to explore new natural colour palettes, contribute to their technical development or investigate the possibility of pooling orders for dyed French wool yarns? Contact Made in Town at pascal@made-in-town.com to discuss your needs and potential opportunities for collaboration.
Find out more about the programme: https://www.collectiftricolor.org/chroma-occitania
Further Reading
Two books by Dominique Cardon explore the expertise and recipes of Occitan master dyers.
Des couleurs pour les Lumières. Antoine Janot, teinturier occitan, 1700–1778
Dominique Cardon — CNRS Éditions
Drawing on Antoine Janot’s work and archival records, this book reveals the wealth of technical and chromatic knowledge developed by master dyers in the eighteenth century. It is an essential reference for understanding the history of colourfast dyeing recipes and traditional dyeing practices in Occitania.
Les 157 couleurs de Paul Gout
Dominique Cardon and Iris Brémaud
Focusing on a remarkable collection of historical colours, this book offers insight into the precision of traditional recipes and the diversity of shades achieved by master dyers. It provides a valuable source of inspiration and knowledge for contemporary research into natural colourants.
